SF 287 ■_ 

l"^ ^ THE ME JV 

Copy 1 ^ 



AND 



impmovmjD system 



OF 



EDUCATING THE HORSE 



BY CHAS. LARABEE. 



ALSl> A 

TREATISE O.Y SEOELYG, 

WITH NEW AND YALITABLE 

RECIPES FOR DISEASES OF HORSES, 

TOGETHER WITH THE 

RULES OF THE UNION COURSE. 



TO WAND A, PA.: 

GOODENOUGH & CLAUSON, JOB PRINTERS. 
1872. 



THE .YE W 



IMPBOVEI} SYSTEM 



OF 



EDUCATING THE HORSE. 

BY CHAS. LARABEE. 



ALSO A 

TREATISE OJ^ SHOELYG, 

WITH NEW AND VALUABLE 

RECIPES FOR DISEASES OF HORSES, 

TOGETHER WITH THE 

RULES OF THE UNION CQURSE/^'YRIGHt'"^ 

TO WANDA, PA.: 

QOODENOUGH & CLAUSON, JOB PRINTERS. 
1872. 






Entered according to Act of CougresB, iu the year 1872, 

By CHAS. LARABEE, 
Iu the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at 'vVashingtoii 



INTMOJD IT'CTIOM. 



Our object in publishing tins work is to give the 
general management of the horse in all things relating 
to the training and driving to which the horse is made 
liable; we say made liable because two-thirds of all 
bad habits are brought on by our own mismanage- 
ment. There never was a naturally ill-disposed horse 
foaled. All bad horses are made so by bad treatment. 
Baulky drivers make baull^y horses. We have always 
succeeded in making all horses in our hands kind and 
gentle for all uses. 

We feel assured in sa^dng that all persons who 
come in possession of this work, and live up to its 
directions, will be equally successful. There is in this 
book all that is needed for the breaking of any kind 
of a horse, and we have used no process not explained 
here. 

The princijDle on which we rest is kindness. We 
wish first to give the horse to understand that we are 
his friend, and to gain his affections. This method 
does not affect the sj^irit of the horse, but makes him 
your obedient slave at once. It causes him to like you, 
and gives him confidence wh^n with you, because he 
feels that you are his friend, and by caressing him 
and always treating him kindly the bond of affection 
is made strong. 

A horse broken on our system will be kind and 
gentle to every one who is so to him. The only way 
to spoil a horse is to abuse and ill treat him. The 
blood horse is as sensitive as a well-bred gentleman. 
He don't wish to be cursed and bawled at. Always 
speak in a low, kind tone, — it has a soothing effect. 



4 THE HORSE TAMER. 

Ladies care the most successful in breaking on this 
principle, for after gaining the confidence of the horse 
they are more kind, and increase the affection more 
than men. It is thus by love, not fear, that we gain 
this practical control over the horse. 

In conclusion I would say our system enables a boy 
fifteen or sixteen years of age to handle and break to 
harness the wildest animal. 

Strength and courage are not essential, but patience, 
perseverance, and kindness are required. The man 
who is void of patience cannot control and win the 
confidence of his horse or friend. 



GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF MANAGING 
HORSES. 

The great strength and susceptibiHty of the horse 
makes his control and successful management very 
greatly dependent upon the skill and prudence brought 
to bear in his education. This requires a knowledge 
of his peculiarities of nature, and of the efiects pro- 
duced upon him by different causes and modes of 
treatment, with the art of adapting means to the end 
(^f mastering and controlling his resistance into such 
limits of character as "we desire. 

To properly understand the horse we must view 
him in his relations to man, mentally. He has an un- 
derstanding, not it is true like that of man, still he is 
animated by a spiritual principle by which he is made 
to feel and see, though w^th less clearness. It is how- 
ever analagous to that of man. Man has an under- 
standing, which the horse has not, and he has a 
rational and moral nature, but the horse has no sense 
of understanding which man does not possess. "With 
less strength physically, but higher order of under- 
standing, it must be seen that our supremacy is not 
meant to be one of physical power only, as of brute 
over brute, but the domination of mind. Hence we 
are thrown back upon a^d made dependent for our 
mastery upon tiie skill and resources of our ability to 
see and understand the causes of resistance and coun- 
teract them by prudence and indirect measures. 

Now it is seen that the principles of educating and 
governing the horse are essentially the same as those 
necessary in the education and government of man, 
with the difference of being necessary to adapt the 



THE HORSE TAMER. 



efforts more directly to the limited understanding and 
control of the greater phj'-sical resistance of the horse. 
A horse understands only from experience, and con- 
sequently his sensibihties and impressions are more 
acute when once aroused to an impression of danger, 
and his resistance more positive and determined upon 
learning his ability to resist control. Therefore, three 
considerations must govern the success of the effort. 

First. The prudence and skill brought to bear in 
addressing and convincing intelligence of the ani- 
mal, and of guarding against the excitements and 
instincts of resistance induced by fear. 

Second. The ability to restrain resistance and en- 
force submission. 

Third. The character of the resistance and the will 
and endurance of the animal to resist control. 

The first consideration implies winning the confi- 
dence and promoting and encouraging obedience by 
patient, gentle treatment. 

It is this tact of the adroit encouragement of flattery 
that creates and maintains the sympathies of the ani- 
mal to submit willingly and patiently to the restraints 
and severities of control, the heart rebounds and stills 
the energies to the most willing obedience when 
rewarded and flattered with kindness, when a sense of 
power is recognized and felt to be absolute. Now as 
far as a sense of inherent j^ov/er and the ability to 
inflict pain, the horse recognizes man in the position 
of a master, and to the degree that his power is soft- 
ened by gentleness and alfegj:ion — there is a co-opera- 
tive desire to obey and submit to his control. To be 
successful in the exercise of this advantage there must 
be patience, gentleness, and honesty of efibrt and 
purpose. To the degree that where there is want of 
this there is not only failure to restrain and overcome 
the excitement of fear, but there is want of gentlenss 
and obedience characterizing the nature of the horse. 



THE HORSE TAMER. 7 

To enforce the obedience and successful control of 
the horse implies a knowledge of such principles and 
methods of management as will give us power to do 
it. But as resistance may be general or local, or both, 
and varied in character and degree from the most 
vicious and determined resistance to that of some 
simple habit, the efforts must not only be adapted to 
the degree and character of the resistance, but the 
control must be of the most positive and convincing- 
character. 

MAN'S SUPERIORITY. 

Man is superior to the horse because of his intelli- 
gence, by which he can devise and adopt measures to 
overcome the strength of the horse or employ it 
against itself. The knowledge of training and manag- 
ing horses lies in this mental superiority. Man 
becomes superior to the ignorant horse only so far as 
he can manage and impress him with a sense of un- 
doubted superiority^ Recognizing the need of con- 
forming to the laws of his nature so as not to excite 
his resistance- — do not let him comprehend it possible 
to resist control. Seek ill the second place to discon- 
cert and control him under all circumstances as to 
impress him most forcibly with man's power and 
absolute supremacy. 

THE NECESSITY OF PROPER MANAGEMENT 
OF HORSES. 

Prudence in conforming to the law^s of the horse's 
nature and winning his contidence by kindness, though 
indispensable, is only as the caution which guards 
against the force of a momentum. There is no ability 
to control, and there would be no need of subduing 
the horse by force had there been no law of his nature 
violated. Since effect must be the result of causes, 
every consequence requiring the genius of man to 
combat and control must be the result of his own 



8 



THE HORSE TAMER. 



imprudence or ignorance. Harshness and tlie neg- 
lect of this necessary attention, while mainly the 
cause of mischief, lead us to infer that the absence 
of such causes, with corresponding regards for the 
laws of kindness, is sufficient to win the bad horse 
to a forgetfulness of his power of resistance. The 
coiu'se of reasoning that teaches him man's inability 
to enforce absolute and unconditional submission 
under all circumstances of resistance, in fact to dis- 
concert and beat him on his ground wdth the apparent 
ease and certainty of positive ability without resorting 
to harsh means or inflicting pain. For as the aim 
of the physician is to subdue the force and eifect 
of the disease by using remedies the least aggravat- 
ing in their action on the system, so the aim of 
the horseman should be in enforcing the submis- 
sion of the horse to do it as nearly as possible on a 
moral basis. 

PRINCIPLES OF THOROUGH TRAINING OF 
BAD HORSES. 

The horse's confidence and rebellion being usually 
the result of long standing in successful resistance, his 
subjugation must be made convincing by rejoeated 
proofs of being overmatched, and that resistance is 
useless. For since his willfulness and rebellion is 
based upon the limited reasoning of his experience, 
that unconditional submission is the only alternative, 
and this you cannot prove to the understanding of 
the horse without repeating your lessons until he 
submits unconditionally. 

Man has the right of control, restraint, correction, 
and even destruction of life, but we must bear the 
consequences of those violations of the laws of his 
nature to which he is thereby subjected. Show your 
horse exactly what you want him to do and endeavor 
to use the patience and reason in teaching and con- 



THE HORSE TAMER. 9 

trolling him, 3'OU would at least believe necessary 
for yourself to understand if placed in like circum- 
stances. 

Ignorant of the language and intentions of a teach- 
er, however preserved his patience, and refrained 
from abuse what progress would you make as a pupil, 
gifted as you are w'ith all your intelligence ? 

If possible, elevate your feelings by relieving your 
responsibility to yourself, to community and to the 
noble animal committed to your charge. Make your 
horse a friend by kindness and good treatment. 

Be a kind master, and not a tyrant, and make your 
horse a willing servant and a slave ! 

EDUCATING HORSES TO OBJECTS OF FEAR. 

As we learn fi'om experience, there are no effects 
without causes, and as the horse becomes fearless and 
confident so far as he understands there are no causes 
for fear, we should remove the cause of mischief as 
much as possible, by complying with those laws of his 
nature by which he examines an object or determines 
upon its innocence or harm, and this is the more nec- 
essary in his early training since first impressions are 
strong in the horse, and once learning of danger when 
once excited. Whatever the horse understands to be 
harmless he does not fear, consequently great atten- 
tion should be given to making him examine and 
smell of such as would be likely to frighten him in 
any place. A horse will never become satisfied in 
regard to an object that startles or frightens him by 
looking at it; but if you will let him approach it 
slowly and examine it with his nose, he will very soon 
become satisfied it is not going to injure him, and he 
will care no more about it, and will never after 
frighten at it however frightful it may seem to be in 
appearance. 



10 THE HOKSE fAMEK.. 

THE WILD COLT. 

As tlie training of the horse must be based uj^ou 
the observance of those principles of his nature, re- 
quiring the exercise of his reason in everj^thing forced 
upon his attention, and of conveying to his under- 
standing most clearly what is required of him, it is 
advisable to commence our lesson on the management 
of the horse by explaining how to proceed with the 
Wild Colt. The first step to be taken is to see that 
the enclosure in which you intend to operate upon the 
colt is unoccupied by anything which will distract the 
attention of the colt, for instance, fowls and domestic 
animals, etc., and all persons except the one who is to 
undertake the training. This latter precaution should 
be taken for the reason that the presence of other 
parties would annoy the colt ! Also, that by allowing 
them to be present you would \-iolate the conditions 
of your instnictions. 

Being prepared, the object is then to get the colt 
into his training ^jlace as carefully as possible, using 
such gentle means as may be convenient and most 
likely to be successful without exciting the colt. • 

Every famier or person at all acquainted Avith the 
management of horses, knows well enough how to do 
this in his own way without being governed by any 
fixed rule. The next thing to be done is to 

HALTER-BREAK THE COLT. 

As soon as he appears quiet and reconciled to the 
restraint of the enclosure, go cautiously and slowly 
towards him, making no demonstrations at all, but 
talking gently, or singing, as you please. It does not 
understand your language, and your presence may 
attract his attention. If he begins to walk away from 
you, stop, but continue your talking or sing and ap- 
pear as careless as you can about his presence, until 



tHE HORSE TAMER. 11 

he becomes quiet again. Then start again and lei- 
surely approach him as before, and so repeat as cir- 
cumstances require until you are close enough to 
touch his withers, or permit him to smell of your hand 
should he seem so disposed. Remember you must be 
patient and gentle in all your actions. Now touch him 
on the withers gently, and gradually win his con- 
iidence, so that you can handle and rub him on the 
neck or head. Do not try to hold him or impose the 
least restraint that would cause him to become excited 
and afraid of you. 

Handle the colt in this way until he becomes recon- 
ciled to your presence, and will suffer you to scratcli 
him as you please. 

Now^ step back and take your halter quietly. The 
halter should be of leather. Rope halters are irritable 
to young horses; they are so harsh that they hurt the 
head whenever the colt pulls. Being hurt the colt will 
naturally try to get his head out of the halter, and 
the more it will hurt, because the tighter and harder 
it will pinch, which will frighten him the more and he 
will try to free himself at all hazards until he pulls 
himself down or breaks the halter. In that case his 
experience would have been a bad one, for you would 
have learned him to be a halter puller. You hold the 
halter in the left hand, having unbuckled it, and ap- 
proach the colt slowly; don't be in a hurry; give him 
time to smell and examine every part in his own way. 
AVhile he is examining the halter, caress and rub him; 
it will further your efforts greatly to give the colt 
something he likes, such as apples, oats, corn, salt, 
&c., that you can get hold of handily. Then take hold 
of the long strap which goes over the head with the 
right hand and carry it under his neck, while you 
reach the left hand over the neck and grasp the end 
of this long strap; then lower the halter just enough 



12 THE HORSE TAMEIJ. 

to get his nose into the nose-piece, then raise it up to 
its proper place and buckle. 

This is the best method to halter a colt, and in cases 
of wild ones, perseverance and patience is required, 
always being careful not to become excited or angry, 
for in that case the colt will show a gi-eat deal more 
resistance, which in the end, and at a gi'eat loss of 
time, you will have to overcome. 

HITCHING COLTS IN STALL. 

Two principles are involved in controlling and 
teaching the horse to submit to the restraint of the 
halter while hitched. Prepare your stall, which should 
be about four or live feet wide by attaching a rope so 
as to bring it across and fasten firmly, so as to strike 
the hind parts; or you can bore holes through so as to 
put a pole in the same manner as a rope. Now tie the 
halter long enough so that as the colt attempts to go 
back he will strike the rope or pole across behind him, 
before he can feel the restraint of the halter. You 
should in this as in everything else you attempt, 
teach your colt to be gentle. In every case you should 
untie the halter before taking down the rope or pole. 
Another method — take a half-inch rope, place under 
the tail, cross on the back, bring forward and tie 
under the -neck or breast; then pass the halter-strap 
through the ring of the manger and tie to the rope, 
so when the horse j^ulls he will be punished and the 
impression will be made stronger than the above. 

TO HALTER-BREAK A WILD COLT. 

First provide yourself with a little pole about ten 
or twelve feet long; cut a notch into one end with 
voui* pocket-knife, and about seven inches from this 
end, drive a nail in, the head bent a little towards the 
end having no notch. Next, you want a good half- 
inch manilla rope, about thirty feet, with a slip noose 



THfi HOUSE TAMEK. 13 

in one end, and a knot in the rope about twenty 
inches from the end with the noose, so it will not 
draw so tight as to choke the colt down, but will 
allow the noose to draw tight enough to shut off his 
wind, so as to prevent him from making a very obsti- 
nate resistance. Now get a short breast-strap, or a 
long hame-strap will do. This put into your pocket 
convenient to the right hand for future use. Now 
approach the colt slowly and carefully as before des- 
cribed, remembering that all persons must be ex- 
cluded. AVhen you succeed in approaching to within 
four or six feet of the shoulders, retreat slowly as 
before and take your stick all ready prepared, holding 
the notched end from you and swinging it very gentle 
a little to the right and left in a horizontal position. 
This is a new object of fear to the colt and will be 
regarded with a great deal of suspicion. However, a 
little patience will soon enable you to get so near the 
colt that you can hold your stick gently over the 
back and shoulders. Then gradually lower it, mov- 
ing gently as before until you can place your hand on 
iiis neck. As this is borne let it drop a little lower 
until it rests on the mane. Now commence scratching 
the neck with the stick gently but firmly. This will 
please the colt and cause him to stand quiet. While 
Hcratching with your stick in this way, sHde your 
i-ight hand slowly and cautiously along its surface 
until you get to the mane, when you scratch with the 
hand in the place of the stick. All this is proving to 
the colt that you will not hurt him, in fact you please, 
and hence he submits quietly. Now step back quietly 
to where your rope is and take the noose and place it 
on the stick, letting it rest on the stick, and between 
the nails or shavings with the main part of the noose 
hanging below the stick, and large enough so as to be 
slipped over the head easily while you keep the other 
end of the rope in the hand with the stick. Your hal- 



14 THE HOKSE fAMEft; 

ter or noose now hangs upon your stick, so spread 
that you can put it over the colt's head without touch- 
ing a hair. Your halter arranged, holding it before 
you, swinging upon the stick you approach the colt in 
the same cautious manner as before until you bring it 
to the nose. This being a new object of fear to the 
colt he will smell of it cautiously. While he is smell- 
ing it you are gradually raising it over his head— so 
gently he does not feel or care about it until you get 
it well back of the ears, then turn your stick and your 
noose will drop on his neck. If he does not stai't, 
take the slack in your rope gently, at the same time 
approach his shoulders cautiously and rub him gently 
if he will allow it. 

If he should endeavor to run away, keep hold of the 
rope. If he tries very hard to get away he soon finds 
himself out of wind caused by the pressure of the ro]3e^ 
about the neck, consequently he will offer but little 
resistance, and will very soon allow you to come up to 
him just as you please. Now you should use him 
gently. 

As soon as he will allow j^ou to approach, loosen 
the noose from his neck, and b}' kind words and 
caresses let him know you do not wish to hurt him. 
Keep on caressing him until he will allow you to rub 
his neck and ears. Encourage him by feeding from 
your hand something that he likes. When he submitK 
so far as to let you handle his head and neck, take 
the other end of the rope, and tie around, hard knot 
in the end and another knot about twenty-five inches 
from the end. 

This knot should be left slack. Now take tlie 
end of the cord in the left hand and carry it under 
the neck to the opposite side, while you reach over 
with the right hand and take it and bring it over the 
top of the neck again. Now put the knot in the end 
of the cord through the other and secure by drawing 



THE HORSE TAMElt. l5 

it as tight as possible. Now make a loop by drawing 
it as tight as possible. Now make a loop by drawing 
a double of the slack rope under the rope around the 
Lieck. Make the loop long enough to slip into the 
colt's mouth, which can be done easily by gently 
insisting on his confidence. A green colt is not bad 
about taking anything in his mouth if you use judg- 
ment and do not frighten him. SHp this loop well up 
above the bridle teeth, and place the lip well over the 
jaw, under the roof. Now draw up on your loop and 
take the noose you first had about the neck off entire- 
ly. You now take hold of the end of the cord. You 
will find you have a means of power in your hands 
that makes the strongest horse almost a plaything. 
And we claim the Camanche bridle and its value in 
managing and training colts cannot be over-estimated 
when used with judgment and handled with adroit- . 
ness and skill. It should never be used so harshly as 
to exeite extreme pain, and yet with a touch that 
causes a fear of resistance. You now have your Ca- 
manche bridle and can control the colt almost at will. 
If he should endeavor to run away from you give him 
a quick, sharp jerk, and at the same time say "whoa !" 
and repeat as often as he may make the attempt to 
get away. When he stops go up to him and caress 
him about the neck and head. 

When he gives up to the rope enough so that he 
does not try to get away, then proceed to learn him to 
lead. With your roj^e in hand step back to his side, 
opposite his hips, and say " come here," at the same 
time giving him a sharp pull on the halter. He will 
swing around towards you, and if he only takes one 
step in the right direction let him know that was what 
you wanted. To make him understand that he has 
done right, go up to him, speak kindly to him and call 
him by name, at the same time petting and caressing 
with the hand. 



10 'tUE HOKSE TAMER. 

Then walk around on the opposite side and repeat. 
Encourage him for every step taken in the right direct- 
tion by caressing and kind words, and in a very shoii 
time he will come to you at the word and follow yon 
around like a dog. If the colt is willful and stub- 
born, handle him with the Camanche bridle until 
he will stand quietly, then take your strap previously 
provided in the right hand, holding by the buckle. 

Now commence raising gently the foot next to you. 
If he resists yoiu- efforts, reprove him with the halter, 
and keep on caressing and rubbing the leg until you 
can take the foot in your hand, then slip the strap 
around below the fetlock, putting the end through 
the keeper on the inside of the buckle; draw it up 
tight so it will not slip up, then pass the strap around 
the arm from the inside of the leg and bring over to 
the outside and buckle. By putting him on three legs 
he can offer but little resistance when pulled by the 
head sideways, and as he does not reason, will come 
around as readily with his legs fi*ee as he will on three. 
Now step back on a line with the hips, holding the 
halter firmly and say "come here!" He of course 
does not obey; so you pull on the bridle and he is 
obliged to swing around to you. Now step to the 
other side and repeat; bring him around by the halter 
each time until when he hears the words, " come here !■" 
he will obey readily. 

As soon as the colt submits to this step, remove the 
strap from off the leg and rub the foot gently where 
the strap has been. Now step back sideways, as 
before, and say " come here! " If he does not come 
readily, give him a sharp pull with the rope, which 
shows him that you can handle him as well on four 
legs as you can on three. Now if he moves a httle to 
obey, caress him, and so continue until he will follow 
you readily. 



THE HORSE TA:MER. 17 

HOW TO HANDLE A COLT'S FEET. 

After breaking the colt to lead well, caress and rub 
liim on the shoulders as at first, and as soon as he 
will bear, work down the wethers and leg; then lift 
lightly on the foot; if it is permitted, rub it quickly 
and smoothly a few seconds, then put it down and 
take it again, and so continue until you can handle 
the foot as you please. 

The main point for you to consider is that you are 
to make the colt understand you will not hurt him, 
and to do this you must be gentle. Now place your 
hand on the shoulder and run it back over the side 
and hips softly and quickly; handle every part thor- 
oughly as you work along towards the leg, and as the 
colt will bear, work the hands around the leg until 
you reach the foot. If there is no resistance after, 
lift up a Httle, and if there is no resistance after let- 
ting it down, rub gently a little more; repeat each 
time, lifting it up a little higher, until you can take it 
up and handle it just as 3'ou please. Should he, how- 
ever, resist and jerk his foot away from you, you must 
resort to means to make him understand that resist- 
ance is out of the question. 

In endeavoring to manage and control your colt, 
you should have your Camanche bridle on as before 
described. Now take the long rope that you hold in 
your hand and put it around over the front teeth of 
the upper jaw and under the upper lip, carry it 
around over the top of the head, bringing the end 
down through the halter loop on the under jaw. Now 
take the end of the rope in your left hand and proceed 
as before to handle his legs and feet. If he stands 
quietly use him gently, but if he should resist, correct 
him with your rope, by which you can inflict so 
severe a punishment that he will submit in a very 



18 THE HORSE TAMER. 

short time, and allow you to handle his legs just as 
you please. Persevere until you can hold the foot in 
your hand, moving it gently and caressing the leg 
until he gets over the fear inspired by the use of the 
cord under the lip. If more thorough treatment is 
necessary, see "Proper Management of Horses bad 
to shoe." 



HOW TO BIT A COLT AND MAKE A BRIDLE. 

Take your Camanche bridle, made exactly as before 
described, vs;'ith the exception of the loop that goes 
around the neck; that should be made large enough 
to fit over the neck rather tightly where the collar is 
worn. Now bring your cord through the mouth from 
the off side, and bring back on the near, through the 
loop around the neck; now pull upon this cord and 
the head will be drawn back to the breast, tie with a 
bow knot and draw down close, so that should the 
colt show signs of rearing backwards, with one short 
jerk you can relieve him, while should he go over 
backward with the restraint on his neck he would be 
likely to injure himself. 

You are now prepared to bit. Simply pull upon 
the cord a little, which will draw the head back 
shghtly; after holding for a short time, render loose; 
then draw a little tighter, and repeat for four or five 
minutes, then stop bitting, and repeat at some future 
time. 

The great secret not only in bitting but of training 
the young horse in any manner is in not confusing or 
exciting him to resistance by training too long. When 
your colt yields readily to the bit, you can check the 
head to suit. Making the check-rein rather tight 
causes the head to be carried high, while the delicacy 
given the mouth will jDrevent the nose being thrown 



THE HORSE TAMER. 19 

forward. This method of bitting may be regarded 
with little favor by those not understanding its effects, 
but all we have further to say on the subject is, give 
it a fair trial. Teach your colt to be perfectly submis- 
sive to your handling in every manner; to lead well, 
back freely at the word. You are now ready for the 
next step in his training, which is usually driving 
in harness. 

BREAKING COLTS TO HARNESS. 

Put on your harness carefully, which should be 
made to fit well, and great care should be used in 
having it safe and strong in every respect. Do not 
be tempted to drive your colt in an old, rotten har- 
ness, or to hitch to an old, rotten wagon, as such are 
liable to give way at any time. Many of the accidents 
causing horses to become subject to bad habits are 
the results of such imprudence. Let every step be 
made sure. Work safe, and you are sure to bring 
about a good result. 

With your harness on, allow him to stand in his 
stall until he becomes somewhat used to the presence 
and pressure of the different parts, and will allow you 
to rattle them about without his caring for them. 
Now lead him around for a short time, and as soon as 
he apf)ears quiet, check him up loosely and take down 
the reins and drive him around the yard. When he 
becomes familiar with the harness, check and reins, 
and will stop and start at the word, and drive around 
to the right or left, you can drive him about the street 
with safety, though in making this step put on the 
Camanche bridle for safety. You should then drive 
to sulky. W^e prefer a sulky at first. Let your colt 
see and examine every part of the sulky, until he 
cares nothing about it; then draw it up behind him, 
rattling and running it back and forth a few times, 



20 THE HOKSE TAMEK. 

then attacli the harness. Before starting him, back 
liim up against the cross bar of the shafts. If he 
should act frightened speak to him calmly but finiily, 
at the same time holding your reins firmly so as to 
prevent him from swinging around, if he should try. 
Then go to him and rub and caress him until he gets 
over his excitement. Then run the sulky up against 
his haunches, at the same time soothing him by gentle 
words until you can shove the sulky against him just 
as you please and he not care anything about it. Now 
you can get into your seat and drive him around 
wherever you choose without danger. Let him go 
slow at first until he becomes familiarized with the 
objects that are new to him along the road, as he is 
not as liable to become frightened while going slow as 
when driven fast. 

OBJECTS OF FEAR. 

In driving be careful about using the whip too free- 
ly. If a stone or a stump, or anything of the kind 
should be regarded with fear, do not whip and drive 
the horse by. Let him stand a short time and look at 
the object until he seems careless about it, then drive 
closer, as he will bear, and so repeat, at the same 
time talking to him encouragingly until you can drive 
him up to the object. Be very sure to have your colt 
comprehend fully that such objects are harmless — as 
opportunity offers in this way — and he will soon be- 
come so fearless and confident as to be regardless of 
such things; but if you whip him for becoming fright- 
ened at such things, he will associate the punishment 
with the object of his fright, and be more frightened 
the next time he sees it. 

The horse being unable to reason only from his 
experience, you should convince him by careful exam- 
ination that the object is harmless. For example : if 



TilK HOllSE TAMEU. 21 

the sight or smell of a robe a few feet distant should 
frighten him, put on your Camanche bridle and take 
liim alone into your yard or barn, lead him gently to 
the robe, let him smell of it if he will, then take it in 
your hand, hold it gently to his nose, then rub it 
against his neck, side, and over his back, and so re- 
peat for a short time. After being familiarized to it 
in this way you can throw it over his back or tie it to 
his tail without causing him the least fear. 

To familiarize a colt to any article that he may have 
regarded with fear, let him touch it with his nose, and 
rub him on the neck and side, and in a short time, 
when he finds it will not hurt him he will become 
reconciled and care nothing about it 

To accustom your horse to the cars, lead him up to 
them, let him smell of them, and even put his nose on 
them, and in this way continue until he becomes 
familiar with them. And then do not fail to repeat 
your lessons until he cares nothing about the object. 
Should you fail by neglect it may render him worse 
than as though you had done nothing with him. 

DRIVING A COLT IN HARNESS. 

When your horse drives well before a sulky then 
you may hitch him to a light wagon or by the side of 
a broke horse, and if you are breaking him for a farm 
or for hauling heavy loads, you can gradually increase 
his load until he will draw to the extent of his ability 
without comprehending that he has the power to do 
otherwise. After yonr horse is sufficiently broke to 
the harness you can either allow him to carry his head 
as nature may dictate, or by the proper use of the 
check-rein bring his head and neck into such position 
of style as his form and temper will bear, or your 
fancy dictate. In teaching your young horse to drive 



22 THE HOKSE TAMEIi. 

well do not be iu a hurry to see how fast he can trot. 
Although your colt may be old enough to learn how to 
move w^ell and perhaps drive gently as an older horse, 
he is not old enough to perform the work of an older 
horse, fully matured. Require but little at first, grad- 
ually increasing as he develops in strength and har- 
dens in gaits. Care should be taken to keep each 
pace clear and distinct from each other. While walk- 
ing he should be made to walk, and not allowed to 
trot. While trotting, as in walking, care should Vk; 
taken that he keeps steady at his pace and not 
allowed to slack into a walk. When occasionally 
pushed to his extreme speed in trot he should be kept 
up to it only for a few minutes at a time, gradually 
requiring more as he becomes practised and capable 
of endurance; and whenever he has done well he 
should be permitted to w^alk a short time, and en- 
couraged by a kind word. Under no circumstances 
should what is termed " his bottom " be tried and 
overdone. The reins while driving should be kept 
snug, and when pushing him to the top of his speed, 
keep him well in hand that he may learn to bear well 
on the bit, as it is by means of the reins mainly that 
the horse, when going at a high rate of speed, is kept 
steady in his place. But while 3-ou should teach your 
horse to drive well to the pressure of the bit, be 
careful not to give him the habit of puUing too hard, 
for then he becomes not only unpleasant but difficult 
to manage. The art of drawing well cannot be taught 
by any w^ritten instructions. Practice and ingenuity 
in this respect can alone make a skillful horseman. 
Always strive to encourage and not overdrive your 
horse, and be careful not whip only for merited 
reproof. The too frequent use of the whip will cause 
the horse to plunge ahead every time he sees or hears 
any unusual movement of it, or at any mishap that 
may occur. 



^THli HORSE TAMER. '23 

TO TRAIN A HORSE TO STAND WHEN 
GETTING INTO A CARRIAGE. 

Take your horse aud lead liiin on the barn floor, 
place him in the position you wish him and say "whoa !" 
The object of this lesson being to teach him the word 
"whoa!" the most important word in horsemanship. 
You will proceed by stepping away from him, and if 
he appears to trifle and not heed you, use the Caman- 
<:he bridle, pulling upon him to warn him to attend to 
you. Practice this until he will allow you to walk 
away in any direction without moving himself. Take 
a whip and crack it slightly, and if he moves put him 
back as before, increasing the cracks of the whip until 
you accustom him to stand while the whip is being 
flourished, and also to throw him and apply the 
method of controlling a nervous horse. If you are 
obliged to drive him while you are trying to break 
him, do not use the. word "whoa," as he is not yet 
accustomed to minding it, and it will only make mat- 
ters worse. Shift the position of the horse and repeat 
the lesson, putting on the harness and leading to 
places where he is accustomed to refuse to stand, and 
teach him to stand in those places, as well as teaching 
him to obey the word " whoa " before hitching him to 
carriage. Then hitch inside a building with the doors 
closed. Get in and out of the carriage, rattle the 
thills and shake the carriage causing him to stand by 
means heretofore alluded to. If it appears that the 
habit is caused by fear of the carriage behind him, 
take him out of the thills and lead him around it, 
allowing him to examine it, and even eat oats out of 
a measure set in the carriage. Now take him out of 
doors, and if he renews his attempt to start, take him 
out of the thills, use the Camanche bridle, fetching 
him back between the thills and say, "whoa." You 
will by this means soon teach him that " whoa " means 



24 THE HORSE TAMER. 

for him to stop and stand. For the sake of not un- 
doing all you have done, remember the caution 
heretofore given to say * whoa!" only when you mean 
him to stop. 

HORSES BAULKING. 

I 

This is the most aggravating of all the habits to 
which the horse is subject; it tries the patience of 
man to the utmost; yet by patience and perseverance, 
with proper management, even this habit can ]>e 
broken up. It is rarely we find a baulky horse which 
is not a good one. They are usually very high spirit- 
ed, quick of comprehension and of a strong nervous 
temperament. They resist because we have failed to 
make them understand what we require of them, or it 
may occur from overloading sore shoulders or work- 
ing imtil tired out. Particularly is this the case with 
young animals. To whip under such circumstances 
only excites them to more determined resistance. On 
the first attempt of your horse to baulk get out of the 
wagon, pat him on the neck, examine the harness care- 
fully, first upon one side then upon the other, speaking 
encouragingly to the animal while doing so; then 
jump in the wagon and give the word to go ; generally 
he will obey ; if he refuses to do so, take him out of 
the thills, put up the traces so that they do not drag 
upon the ground, then take him by the head and tail, 
reel him until he is almost ready to fall, then hook 
him up again and give him the word to go; this rarely 
fails. It takes that sullen spirit out of them, and they 
start at the word. 

I have failed but once in handling baulky horses, 
though I have handled a large number of them. By 
repeating the same operations every day for a week, 
usually breaks up this most perplexing habit thorough- 
ly and permanently. 



THE HORSE TAMER, ' 25 

Anuther method which often proves successful to 
break a horse in double harness, is take a hemp cord, 
pass around under the tail, bring forward through the 
terret ring of the baulky horse and fasten to the ring 
of the other horse's collar or hame, when the other 
horse starts the baulky one can do no other way than 
move with him, which in a short time, if the horse is 
hitched single or double by taking your whip or any 
common stick and place on the backs of the crupper 
strap the horse will start readily. 

The only practical method of throwing a horse, first 
adopted by E. V. Hamilton, is easy to the person 
handling the horse, and safe. The horse lays down 
quietly, almost as easy as when lying down by him- 
self in the stall. To perform the work procure a rope 
or any strap long enough to pass around the horse, 
and tie in a knot on the back with an iron ring, small 
size, tied fast; pass the end of the strap or rope 
around under the tail for a crupper, bring the end 
back, fastening to the belt around the body; then take 
a small cord of sufficient strength to hold your heft; 
pass around the horse's neck, tie in a knot that will 
not slip ; then pass the cord through the horse's 
mouth, and stroll back to the ring on the horse's back; 
when that is accompHshed pass a strap around the near 
fore foot twice and through the keeper, strapping the 
foot to the belt around the horse; when that is done, 
step back from the horse, taking hold of the small 
cord, pulling gently till you have the head to the side, 
then with a quick pull bring the horse to the ground, 
with his knee to steady him as he falls. It can be 
done with ease and safety. Whatever may be the 
bad habit of your horse, it is a very good plan to 
give him a regular course of training, and by throw- 
ing a horse down and handling him just as you please 
while down, demonstrates to the understanding of 
the animal that it is worse than useless to try to 



26 * - THE HORSE TAMER. 

resist control. It is the best way we have ever found 
to handle nervous horses. After handling gently while 
down they find they are not hurt and get over their 
fear and will allow you to do with them as you like 
anywhere. 

PULLING AT HALTER. 

Place on him a common halter head-stall. Put on 
a common girt. Take a half-inch rope, about twenty 
feet long. Pass the centre of this rope under the tail 
in place of a crupper; twist the rope over a couple of 
times; pass the end of the rope under the girth, bring- 
ing an end up on each side of the neck, and pass the 
ends through the nose-piece of the head-stall under 
the cheek pieces, and tie to a stout ring or place, leav- 
ing about three feet play of rope. As soon as the horse 
falls back, he being tied by the tail to the ring, he 
pulls upon the tail, and the hurt coming there instead 
of the head, where he expected it, he starts up, it be- 
ing natural to go from the hurt. By giving him two 
or three lessons, making him fall by whipping him 
over the nose or exciting him with an object, he is 
afraid of the impression being made too strong, will 
not forget it, and the more so by repeating for one 
month or more lessons at different times. 

TO BREAK HORSES FROM JUMPING. 

Tie straps to the fore feet, below the knees; pass it 
up under a surcingle around the body, and tie the 
other ends above the fetlock to straps inclosed in a 
ling, so one will go above and the other below the 
fetlock. You will see that when he attempts to jump a 
fence the fore foot is di'awn up under him, and as he 
springs to leave the ground the hind feet will be 
pulled up and he will inevitably remain in the lot. 
The value of this plan is that it will in most instances 
cure a horse or cow of the habit. 



THE HORSE TAMER. 27 

Pawing in doll and kicking of one foot. Get a piece 
of chain, ten inches in length, run a short strap 
through one of the end Hnks and buckle it around the 
foot above the fetlock; or a piece of light chain can 
be fastened to a single block and attach it to the foot 
in the same manner, when the horse attempts to paw 
or kick, the clog or chain rattles against the foot and 
prevents a repetition of the practice. 

CRIBBING HORSES. 

Place a roller at the top of your manger, six inches 
in diameter, reaching across the stall. Let the horse 
eat his hay and grain from the bottom of the manger. 
The stall should be wide enough so as he can be tied 
to prevent him from cribbing at the sides of the stall, 
and also to be ceiled in front so as to prevent him. 
When he attempts to crib he must inevitably work on 
the roller which, when he places his teeth to crib the 
roUer turns, his lips come in contact with the roller 
and punishes him at every attempt, and after a few 
trials becomes satisfied and will not attempt to crib. 
The surest reinedy of breaking a cribber is to trade 
him off after he has been placed in a stall as above 
mentioned. 

To lead a horse behind a wagon, take a stout cord or 
small rope, and place under his tail, cross on the back, 
run through the rings of the halter; first hitch him to 
a post, and by hitting him over the nose with some- 
thing, or to excite him, make him pull, which will 
satisfy him of his useless attempts at holding back on 
the halter; then hitch him to the wagon, and you will 
find no trouble in riding home without the many 
inconveniences of leading. 

KICKING IN HARNESS. 

Kicking may justly be regarded as a bad habit, be- 
cause of the danger incident to the use of such horses. 



28 THE HORSE TAMEK. 

It is well to remember that this habit is in most cases 
the result of carelessness or mismanagement. Proper 
attention is not given to the fitting of the harness; the 
straps dangle about the flanks of the colt, unacquaint- 
ed with their nature, which frightens and causes him 
to kick. Or, what is more common, an old harness is 
used and breaks at some unlucky moment, which 
frightens the colt, and he kicks as a means of self- 
defence, when his feet and legs coming in contact with 
the whiffletree or cross-piece, causes him greater 
fright, and he becomes reckless, springs ahead in a 
frantic endeavor to free himself from his tormenter, 
until he tears himself loose, or is stopped after being 
worried out with fright and exertion. Learning fear 
and resistance in this way, he becomes alarmed at the 
least indication of its repetition. This fear must be 
broken by familiarizing the horse with the causes of 
his fear, at a time \^en he is powerless to resist, and 
when he finds there is no danger of harm, he will 
cease resistance. In the majority of cases this habit 
is broken by our means of control. 

To break the kicking horse, you want to put him 
through a regular course of handling that will con- 
vince him of your ability to manage him just as you 
please, while at the same time you demonstrate to his 
understanding that he can not help himself, and must 
submit unconditionally to your control. In the first 
place, then, give him a turn with the Camanche bridle 
— making him stop at the word " whoa!" and come to 
you at the word. When he sul^mits to that, proceed 
still further in convincing him of your power and 
mastery by throwing him down. To do this, fasten up 
the near fore leg, as described in " Handling the Feet." 
Now put a strong surcingle, with a ring slipped on it, 
around the animal, and slip the ring to the right side 
of the horse, near the back-bone. Now draw the end 
of your cord or Camanche bridle through the ring, 



I 



*raE MOUSE TAMER. 29 

bringing it over to the near side of the animal; now 
take the halter out of the month, thus leaving a plain 
loop around the horse's neck; then take hold of your 
cord with the left hand and straighten it out. Now 
you have a plain double from the neck of the horse 
around to the ring on the right side ; you put this into 
the horse's mouth, and draw up the end of the cord 
with the right hand. Now you have him completely 
in your power; you can handle him as easily as a boy 
could a top. Now step back by his side with the cord 
grasped firmly in your hand, say " lie down, sir," at 
the same time pulling sternily on the rope. His foot 
being fastened up he is easily thrown off his balanceed 
He will gradually settle down on to the knee of the 
near leg, when a quick pull will bring him over on his 
aide. Now you have him down, use him gently; rub 
his head and neck; talk to him kindly, thus letting 
him know that your object is not to hurt him — that 
all you require is submission, and that you possess the 
ability to enforce that. After letting him lie for a 
while, make him get upon three legs, let him stand a 
moment, then put him down again. While down, 
handle his feet and legs as you please, and so continue 
until he will lie still and submit to you in everything 
you wish. Then take the straji off his leg and let him 
get up; caress and rub his leg where the strap has 
been. Now put the harness on. Use a blind bridle 
with a W bit (or some call it a double-joint bit), and 
if you can not obtain one at your harness maker's, go 
to a blacksmith and have one made. With this kind 
of a bit on your horse, you want to drive him around 
your yard, occasionally saying " whoa !" at the same time 
netting him back upon his haunches with the bit. In 
a very short time he will stop when you say "whoa!" 
without any pull on the rein ; then go up to him and 
caress him about the head and neck; then take your 
whip and switch him around the hind legs and flanks, 



30 THE HORSE TAMER. 

lightly, and if he shows a disposition to kick or riiti. 
say "whoa !" sharply, at the same time correct with the 
bit. In your first lessons use the bit with severity — 
thus demonstrating to the horse your determination 
and ability to enforce obedience under any and ftlJ 
circumstances of resistance. When you can drive hinj 
around with a whip at a trot, and stop him at the 
word without using the rein, go to him again and pat 
and inib him to encourage him in well-doing. Then 
attach the long cord to your reins, and start him away 
from you at a trot, letting him go as far as the length 
of your cord w^ill permit without pulling on the bit, 
when 30U will say "whoa!" If he stops, go up and 
caress him, and keep on in that way until he will stop 
and start at the word, no matter how far aw^ay he is, 
so long as he can hear your voice. After you have 
him so well in hand that he obeys readily and will- 
ingly, take the reins in your hand and learn him to 
back, encouraging him by kindness when he doeu? 
right, and correcting with the bit when he shows the 
least intimation to be rebeUious and stubborn. AVhen 
he will back at the word, back him against your bugg\ 
wheels, keeping an eye on his movements, and if he 
shows fear and a disposition to get away from it, do 
not force him against it at first, but drive him around 
and up to it, letting him smell and examine it until 
he becomes satisfied it is not going to hurt him; then 
back him up to it again — right back against it — and 
if he is disposed to kick say "whoa !" sharply, at the 
same time giving him a short, quick jerk with the rein. 
By this treatment he finds that you still have the same 
power in your hands that has already controlled him 
so completely and easily, therefore he submits uncon- 
ditionally. You can now proceed to hitch him up; 
watch him closely, and if anything should excite him 
momentarily, and he should manifest a desire to 
repeat his old habit, say "whoa !" and if he does not obey 



THE HORSE TAMER. 31 

instantly, set him back with the bit in a manner that 
shall have no doubt of your ability to control him at 
will. If handled in this way for a few times he be- 
comes convinced of the uselessness of resistance, and 
careful management for two or three weeks will radi- 
cally break the worst horse of this kind we ever saw. 
People have often expressed wonder at our success in 
managing kicking and runaway korses. The simple 
laws of nature are to such unworthy of reflection, ex- 
cept the submission of the animal, the control is 
looked upon as the result of a peculiar gift. But we 
do control them jDcrfectly and thoroughly by the word 
•' whoa !" In breaking to the word we use means that 
compel obedience. If your horse minds the word 
quickly and stops at your bidding, he is not going to 
do you or himself any damage by kicking, for if you 
stop him whenever the old habit is brought to mind, 
and let him stand until the excitement is over, he will 
have no incentive for kicking, and in a short time will 
forget the habit altogether. So with 

THE RUNAWAY HORSE. 

Handle with the Camanche bridle, and by throwing 
the same as the kicking horse in harness, unless the 
habit is caused by fear of some object, such as an 
umbrella, buifalo robe, or anything else that may 
frighten him and cause him to run away; if that 
should be the case, when you have him down take the 
frightful object — whatever it may be — around him, 
throw it onto him, at the same time rub and caress 
him, let him know it is nothing that will hurt him; 
then let him up, put it on or over him, rub him with 
it, and in that way familiarize him with it until he 
cares nothing about it. Then train him in harness 
until he will mind the word "whoa !" Make him run, and 
if he does not stop at the word, stop him by the bit 



32 THE HORSE TAMER. 

SO suddenly as to disconcert him and distroy his con- 
fidence completely. 

Although we have given a powerful means of coer- 
cion, and of impressing the horse of his inability to 
resist the power of man, still practical and thorough 
as those means are, they are of but little account if 
not used with prudence and judgment. Men are too 
apt to depend upon main strength and stupid harsh- 
ness for success in the management of horses. And 
with equal stupidity the basis of control we have here 
given may be made in the hands of some a power to. 
be abused with reckless disregard of consequences. 
Be firm, persevering and prudent in the exercise of 
your power when it is necessary to impress your sub- 
ject with a sense of mystery; but be gentle, attractive 
and afi'ectionate when he is obedient and submissive- 
Train your horse thoroughly with the Camanche bri- 
dle each sime before hitching up. We find by expe- 
rience that horses subject to bad habits are ungovern- 
able in the mouth. If we govern the mouth well we 
have, in almost every instance, a good control of the 
horse; and it is an important requisite, under all cir- 
cumstances, in the control of horses in harness. Then 
control while driving, until thorough and certain obe- 
dience is insured to the word. Strive to tell your 
horse exactly what you want him to do, and do not 
confuse him by attaching different meanings to the 
same word. It is quite common to say " whoa !" when 
it is intended to go slower, or to attract the attention 
of the horse when standing, to let him know of your 
presence. Now if anything should happen, and you 
wished him to stop suddenly, he would not be likely 
to mind without a pull at the bit; and why should he, 
as long as he has been learned in that haphazard way 
that "whoa !" meant anything and nothing at the same 
time ? Such training confuses the horse so much that, 
though he is naturally obedient and tractable, he will 






THE HORSE TAMER. ^3 



become careless and obstinate. Have a distinct word 
for every command, and make liim understand that 
every command must be obeyed. Speak m a natural 
tone of voice to your horse under all circumstances. 
Nothing confuses a horse more than screaming at him 
to have him hear. He is as acute in the sense of hear- 
ing as a man, and so sensitive, if nervous, as to have 
his pulse increased from six to ten beats a minute by 
one harsh word. Have your horse understand that 
thino-s likely to frighten are harmless, and be sure not 
to whip for being frightened. If your horse is fright- 
ened afanvthing approaching, let him stand until it 
passes; but hold the reins snug and firmly, or he may 
swing round and upset you. If cars are passing, and 
are regarded with fear, let your horse face them, but 
hold him immovable with the reins. Always, under 
such circumstances, talk encouragingly to him, remem- 
berino- the slower vou move him the more power you 
have over him. There is but httle danger of a horse 
kicking after being stopped or while moving slowly, 
and so with the runaway. He will seldom make a 
second attempt at the time he has been foiled and 
stopped. A horse frightened becomes reckless, con- 
sequently never raise an umbrella suddenly or unex- 
pectedly behind a horse afraid of such things. First 
raise it at his head and gradually carry it back, and 
then, to make sure, if you have not a bit that will con- 
trol vour horse easily, put on a Camanche bridle and 
carry it back in the wagon or buggy. Fear and anger 
is something that a good horseman should never ex- 
hibit in his countenance or voice, as the horse is a 
close observer and soon learns to take advantage of 
such indications to become careless, or excited by 
anger, may become aggressive or unmanageable. Let 
your lessons be thorough, but not very long. Be 
gentle and patient with the colt, but make the willful, 
stubborn horse feel the full extent of your power. 



34 THE HORSK TAMER; 

Make the old reprobate know that the only alterna- 
tive is unconditional submission to your will; though 
if he should become too much heated and excited, it 
is prudent to stop, and repeat the lesson at some 
future time; but repeat until there is thorough and 
unconditional submission. After a horse submits, let 
your treatment be characterized by gentleness and 
good nature. 

BAD TO SHOE. 

The habit of resistance to being shod or allowing 
the feet to be handled, like all others to which horses 
are subject, is the result of hasty and imprudent harsh- 
ness. It would seem from the reckless disregard of 
consequences so generally evinced in handling young 
horses, as though ^man doubted his own reason and 
would not take counsel of the teachings of prudence. 
If the feet had been handled gently at tirst, find black- 
smiths had not vented so much of their vexation in 
the wa^' of pounding with the hammer for every little 
moyement of resistance in shoeing, this habit would 
never have been contracted. The natural tractability 
of the horse causes him to yield a ready obedience to 
all reasonable demands that he comprehends. If the 
feet are jerked up roughly, aiul without an effort to 
reconcile him to being handled, the colt will strive to 
get away or free himself from what he suj^poses will 
hurt him. Never hold to the foot with all your might 
when the colt is trying to jerk it away, for in such a 
case strength is not your forte, and your struggles 
only convince the horse of your weakness. Handle the 
horse in conformity with the laws of nature, so as not 
to excite resistance through fear of injur}'. If the horse 
does not very much resist the handling of his feet, put 
the Camnnche bridle on him and put a short strap on 
his hind foot. Pulling upon the strap will bring the 
foot forward, and he will probably resist by kicking. 



THE HORSE TAMER. 6D 

The instant he kicks, reprove with the Camanche bri- 
dle, which is held in the other hand, and so continue 
until the foot is submitted without resistance. But if 
your subject is very bad, take a strap or rope about 
twelve feet long, and tie one end of it in a loop around 
his neck where the collar rests, pass the other end 
back between the fore legs and around the near hind 
leg below the fetlock, thence back between the legs 
and through the loop around the neck. Now step in 
front of the horse and take a firm hold of the rope or 
strap and give a quick pull upon it, which will bring 
the foot forward. If the horse is bad, pull the foot 
as far forward as 3"ou can, which will give you the 
more advantage. The horse will try to free the foot 
by kicking. Hold the head firmly with the left hand 
and with the other hold the strap lirmly. Stand 
right up to the horse's shoulder and whirl him about 
3^ou, which you can easily do while he struggles to 
free himself. As soon as he yields, handle the foot 
gentl}^, and then let up on it a little, and so continue 
until he will let you handle the foot without resist- 
ance. It may be necessary to repeat the lesson once 
or twice, and be careful to handle the foot with the 
greatest gentleness. 

If your rope is rough, put a collar on the neck 
instead of the loop, and fasten your strap to it. Use 
a smooth soft strap, so as not to chafe the foot where 
it passes around it. 

SHOEING. 

If we examine the horse's foot while in the natural 
state, it Avill be found to be almost round and very 
elastic at the heel, the frog broad, plump, and of a 
soft, yielding character; the commissures open and 
well defined, the sole concave; the outside crust from 
the heel to the toe increased from a slight bevel to an 
angle of forty-five degrees; consequently as the foot 



36 THE HORSE TAMER. 

grows it becomes wider and longer in proportion to 
tlie amount of horn secreted, and narrower and 
shorter in proportion to the ground surface. If a shoe 
were fitted nicely and accurately to the foot after 
being dressed down well, it would be found too nar- 
row and short for the same foot after a lapse of a few 
weeks. Now if an unyielding shoe of iron is nailed 
firmly to this naturally enlarging and elastic hoof, it 
prevents its natural freedom of expansion almost 
wholly, and does not allow the foot to grow wider at 
the quarters as it grows down, in proportion to the 
amount of horn grown, as before shod; consequently 
the foot is changed by the continued restraint of the 
shoe, from a nearly round, healthy foot to a contract- 
ed and unhealthy condition, as generally seen in horses 
shod for a few years. 

The principles which should govern in shoeing are 
few and simple, and it is surprising, considering the 
serious consequences involved, that it should be done 
with so little consideration. The object of the shoer 
should be, in trimming and preparing the hoof for the 
shoe, to keep the foot natural, and this involves first 
the cutting away of any undue accumulation of horn, 
affecting in the least its health and freedom. Second, 
to carry out in the shape of the shoe, that of the foot 
as nearly as possible. Third, to fit and fasten the shoe 
to the foot so as least to interfere with its health, 
growth, and elasticity. The prej^aration of the foot 
requires the cutting away of about the proj^ortion of 
horn which, coming in contact with the ground, would 
have worn off, or which has accumulated since being 
shod last. If the shoes have been on a month, the 
proportion of horn that was secreted in that time is to 
be removed. If two months, then the proportion of 
two months' growth. No definite rule can be given; 
the judgment must be governed by the circumstances 
of the case. The stronger and more rapid the growth 



THE HORSE TAMER. 37 

of the foot, the more must be cut away; and the 
weaker and less horn produced the less to the extrem- 
ity of simply leveling the crust a little, the better to 
conform to the shoe. There is generally a far more 
rapid growth of horn at the toe than at the heels or 
the quarters; more will be required to be taken off 
there than off the other parts. Therefore shorten the 
toe and lower the heels until you succeed in bringing 
down the bearing surface of the hoof upon the shoe 
to almost a level with the live horn of the sole. Be 
careful to make the heels level. Having lowered the 
crust to the necessary extent with the buttress or 
kuife, smoothe it down level with the rasp. The sole 
and frog detach by exfoliation as it becomes S'lpera- 
bundant. The sole, therefore, would not need paring 
were it not for the restraining effect of the shoe upon 
the general functions of the foot, which is liable to 
prevent such detachment of the horn. We would be 
particular, also, in impressing the necessity of not 
confounding the bars with the substance of the sole, 
and seating them down to the common level With the 
sole. Any man of common sense can see that the 
bearing of the bars should be equal to the outside of 
the crust upon the shoe, and that they offer a decided 
resistance to the contraction of the heels. The cutting 
away of the bars to give the heels an open appearance, 
Is inexcusable, and should never be done. In a natu- 
ral, healthy condition, the frog has a line of bearing 
with the hoof, and by its elastic nature acts as a safe- 
guard to the delicate machinery of the foot immediately 
over it, and helps to preserve the foot in its natural 
state by keeping the heels spread. It seems to be 
wisely intended to give life and health to the foot. 
Permitting the heels to grow down, with the addition 
of high-heeled shoes, raises the frog from its natural 
position and causes it to shrink and harden, and bears, 
in consequence, an important influence in setting up 



38 THE HOESE TAMER. 

a diseased action that usually results in contraction 
of the foot. If the heels are square and high, and the 
hoof presents rather a long narrow appearance, and 
is hollow on the bottom, there is a state of contraction 
going on, and you mnst not hesitate to dress down 
thoroughly. Do not hesitate because the foot will 
appear small. Cut away until you are well down to a 
level with the line horn of the sole, and if the foot is 
weak, use the same prudence in not cutting it away 
too much. The shoer must always bear in mind that 
the sole must not rest on the shoe. Let the foot be 
so dressed down, and the shoe so approximate, that 
the bearing will come evenly upon the crust all the 
way around without the sole touching the shoe. This 
requires the crust to be dressed level, and although 
well down to the live horn of the sole, it should always 
be left a little higher. The corners between the bars 
and crust should be well pared out, so that there is no 
danger of the sole resting upon the shoe. Presuming 
that we have said enough on the subject of paring, we 
will now consider 

THE SHO^. 

The main object should be to have the shoe so 
formed as to size, weight, fitting, and fastening, as to 
combine the most advantages of protection and pre- 
serve the natural tread of the foot best. In weight it 
should be proportioned to the work or employment of 
the horse. The foot should not be loaded with more 
iron than is necessary to preserve it. If the hoof is 
light, the shoe should be light also; but if the horse 
works principally on the road, his shoes should be 
rather heavy. In its natural state, the foot has a con- 
cave sole surface, which seems to offer the greatest 
fulcrum of resistance to the horse when traveling. 
Most of the shoes now in use by intelligent shoers, are 
fashioned on this principle, and aside from the advan- 



tHE HORSE TAMER, 39 

tage of lightness and strength, they ar6 considered to 
l>e an improvement on the common llat shoe. Geo. H. 
Dadd, veterinary surgeon, said once on the subject of 
shoeing: "The action of concave feet may be com- 
pared to that of the claws of a cat, or the nails on the 
fingers and toes of a man, the nails and toes are the 
fulcrum ; they grasp, as it were, the bodies with which 
they come in contact, and thus they secure a fulcrum 
of resistance when traveling or grasping." Now, in 
order to preserve the natural mechanical action of the 
horn and sole, the ground surface of the shoe must 
•correspond exactly with the ground surface of the 
foot; that is to say, the ground surface of the shoe 
must be leveled cup-fashion; its outer edge being 
prominent, corresjjonds to the lower and outer rim of 
the hoof, while the shoe being hollow, it resembles 
J.he natural concave form of the sole of the foot. 

No matter what may be the form of the foot, wdiether 
it be high or low^ heeled, contracted at the heels, 
lengthened or shortened at the toe, or having a con- 
cave or convex sole, it matters not; the ground surface 
of the shoe must be concave. In every other part of 
the shoe alterations and deviations from any given 
rule or form are needed, in consequence of the ever 
varying form of the foot and the condition of the 
same, both as regards health and disease, but the sole 
of the foot being concave presents a pattern for the 
ground surface of the shoe which the smith, with all 
his skill, cannot improve on, and if all such craftsmen 
were to follow this pattern more closely than they do, 
there would be fewer accidents in falling, and a less 
number of lame horses. The shoe should be of equal 
thickness all the way round, perfectly level on the top 
side, and concave on the ground surface. 

We can not see the propriety, as given by a stan- 
dard author, of seating all shoes alike, and of carrying 
tliem well back at the heel. Seating appears to be 



40 THE HORSE TAMER. 

necessary only for the flat-footed horses, or the inside 
edge of the shoe must be lo^v^red from the possible 
bearing of the sole, and enough to run the picker 
around between the shoe and hoof, to remove any 
gravel or foreign matter that may find a lodgment 
between them. If there is much space between the 
shoe and sole, it invites accumulation of gravel and 
other subtanees injurious to the foot. 

If the seating is carried well back, and the shoe is 
wide at the heels, instead of bearing on a level surface 
as they should, come down upon this inclined plane, it 
tends to crowd them together. If the shoe is not wide 
in web, and the foot strong and arched, it may be 
made perfectly level on toj). At all events, that por-- 
tion upon which rests the heels and crust, should be 
level and accurately fitted. The shoe should be con- 
tinued around tow^ard the heel so far as the crust ex- 
tends, as large as the full unrasped hoof, but no part 
must project beyond it, excepting at the extreme of 
the heel. The expansion of the heel and the gi'owfh of 
the foot requires that the shoe should be long enough 
and wide enough at the heels to allow for the natural 
growth of the foot during the time the shoe is expected 
to remain on the foot; for as the foot growls, the shoe 
is drawn forward, until it loses its original proportion, 
and becomes too short and narrow. The shoe may be 
a quarter of an inch wider and longer than the extreme 
bearing of the heels, and the nail holes should be 
punched coarse and in the center of the web. In the 
hind shoe, four in the outside and two or three well 
forward in the inside toe, as found necessary to retain 
the shoe. 

The manner of fastening the shoe is what really 
affects the foot, and what i-equires the most special 
attention in shoeing; for the foot being elastic, ex- 
pands in the same proportion on the rough as on the 
nicely fitted shoe. It is the number and position of 



THE HORSE TAMER. 41 

the nails that really affect the foot. If they are placed 
well back in the quarters, four on a side, as is common, 
the crust is held as firmly to this unyielding shoe as if 
in a vice, which utterly prevents the free action nec- 
essary to its health. Inflammation of the sensitive 
laminjB is produced, which causes contraction and the 
consequent derangement of the whole foot. 

If the free, natural expansion of the foot and the 
spreading of the quarters in proportion to the growth 
of the hoof is prevented by the nailing of the shoe, 
irritation of the fleshy substance betw^een the crust 
and coffin-bone will result, and ultimately create so 
much diseased action of the parts as to cause contrac- 
tion and navicular disease. Shoes may be securely 
fastened without causing such mischief, if the follow- 
ing method of nailing is observed : Drive four nails on 
the outside of the foot the same as common, while you 
drive two or three w ell forward in the toe of the oppo- 
site side, which leaves the inside quarter virtually free 
and independent of the shoe, for the outside of the 
foot being the only part fastened, carries the shoe with 
it at every expansion, while the inside, being unat- 
tached, expands independently of if, and the foot is 
left as nearly as possible in a state of nature so far as 
its powers of expansion are concerned. It may be 
asked, will this style of nailing hold shoes on the feet 
of horses of all work? We answer, yes; experience has 
fully demonstrated that seven nails will hold the shoe 
on ordinary feet for any purpose, if the shoes are 
properly fltted, for a period of from four to seven 
weeks, wiiich is as long as shoes should be on without 
re-setting. If shoes are made with little clips, to keep 
them from being shoved back under the foot, they will 
require less nailing. If seven nails are found to be 
necessary, have the three on the inside drove in the 
space of an inch and a quarter, well forward in the 
toe, though in most cases two wiU be found sufficient 



42 THE HORSE TAMER. 

for the purpose. Turn down the chnchers snugly. 
Nothing should be done for what might be called 
"fancy." The hoof should never be filed or rasped 
above the clinches, as the hoof is covered by a pecu- 
liar enamel that prevents the too rapid evaporation of 
moistui'e from the horn, and ought not to be disturbed. 
The practice of rasping, filing or sandi^apering the 
hoof to make it look nice, only produces mischief, and 
should never be allowed. Horses kept for light driv- 
ing and irregular work — particularly those having 
rather square, uj^right heels — should be shod on the 
one-sided nailing principle, as the feet of such horses 
are much disposed to contraction. So far as observa- 
tion and experience teaches us, we find proper atten- 
tion to paring down the feet and fastening the shoes 
so as not to interfere with the free expansion of the 
hoof (as above) will remedy contraction; though at- 
tention to growing down the crust, and the use of 
shoes that are slightly convex or leveled out, so as to 
have a tendency to spread the heels when the weight 
of the body is thrown upon the foot, and fastening on 
the principle of the inside quarter being left free, is 
regarded as mucli better; but the blacksmith must be 
a good workman to fashion and fit a shoe in this way 
properly. The nails should not be driven higher in 
the crust than seven-eighths of an inch, and not so 
deep as to possibly strike through to the quick. If 
the foot is light, and shows a thin, delicate crust, the 
nails should be small and not driven high or deep into 
the horn. As a rule, the fewer and smaller the nails 
used — provided they secure the shoe to the foot — the 
better. Shoes should be re-set as often as once a 
month, though in some cases they need not require 
setting so often. It is positively necessary at six, and 
must not be neglected longer than seven or eight 
weeks, if you would preserve the natural shape of 
the foot. 



THE HORSE TAMER. 43 

FOR INTERFERING. 

To prevent interfering, know first what part of the 
foot hits the opposite ankle. This you can do by 
wrapping the ankle with a white cloth, which cover 
vdih. some kind of coloring matter over where the op- 
posite foot hits; then drive the horse until you can 
discover by some of the coloring matter adhering 
what portion of the crust hits the ankle. Remove this 
portion of the crust, and have the shoe set well under 
the foot, but carefully fitted, so as to support the foot 
safely by bearing on the bar and heel. The hoof 
should be pared lowest on the outside, to turn the 
ankle that the other hoof may pass clear. Yet if the 
inside sole is not dressed, the rim soon breaks, and 
the inside is found to be actually lower than the out- 
side. Shoes, to prevent interfering, should be light, of 
narrow web on the inside, with three nail-holes near 
the toe. They should be straight at the point where 
they come in contact with the opposite ankle. By 
adhering to this principle strictly of paring the foot 
and fitting and fastening the shoe, you will prevent a 
recurrence of the difficulty. Shoes, to prevent over- 
reaching, should be long, and for the forward feet 
heavy, especially at the heels; and for the hind feet 
Ught, with heavy toes. The hoof should be well pared 
at the toe. 

CORNS. 

Corns appear in the angles of the hoof near the 
heel. They are generally caused by the shoe, being 
worn too long, causing the shell of the hoof to grow 
over the shoe, which throws the weight upon the sole, 
or the angles between the bars and crust are not kept 
properly dressed out — for any accumulation of horn 
between the bars and crust which would prevent the 
free elasticity of the sole at the heel must increase the 
risk of producing corns, by the UabiHty there is of 



44 THE HORSE TAMER. 

causing the sensitive laminse beneath the edges of the 
coffin-bone to become bruised, owing to the undue 
pressure it may be subjected to for want of elasticity 
in the horny sole. When the sensitive laminae is thus 
bruised the horny substance of which the sole is com- 
posed is secreted in less quantities, the blood from the 
ru^Dtured vessels mingles with the imperfectly secreted 
matter, and as the process is going on it soon makes 
its appearance on the outside. 

TO CURE CORNS. 

Cut the corn well down, but not quite to the quick; 
dt the shoe so as not to press upon the j)art, then sat- 
urate with fine gum, which is found exuding from 
trees when cut. Fill the part nicely with tow, then 
put on the shoe, remembering that the shoe must be , 
so fitted as not to oblige the part to support but very 
Httle, if any, of the weight of the horse. We have 
had horses troubled with corns treated in this w^ay 
with very good effect. Horses with corns must be 
oftener and more carefully shod than those free from 
them. In shoeing, strive to keep the form of the foot 
natural. Be positive in the enforcement of this rule; 
and lastly, have the shoes re-set at least every six or 
seven weeks. 

TO LEARN A HORSE TO APPEAR 
INTELLIGENT. 

As many of our scholars may wish to know how to 
teach their horses tricks we will explain how it may 
be done. Teaching your horse a few trick serves greatly 
to keep an interest in him and makes him appear fear- 
less, intelligent, and affectionate. In teaching a horse 
tricks it is best to give him one or two lessons daily of 
half or three quarters of an hour each. 



THK HORSE TAMEE. 45 

TO COME AT THE CRACK OF THE WHIP, OR WORD. 

Put qn the Camanche bridle, stand off a few feet, 
holding the halter in your left hand and the w^hip in 
the right Crack the whip and say " Come here, sir !" 
He does not know what this means, but you show him 
by pulling on the halter a little, which he will obey by 
moving towards you a few^ stej^s. This movement you 
should thank him for by feeding him something that 
iie likes from your hand, and by petting and caressing 
him upon the head and neck; then repeat in the same 
way, rewarding him as before, and so continue until 
he will walk up to you every time 3'ou crack the whip 
or say "Come here, sir!" which he will soon learn to 
do. Each time he comes to you talk to him kindly 
and do not fail to give him his reward of corn or 
something he likes. You can now take off the halter 
and turn him loose, and repeat until he fully compre- 
hends that the way to avoid the whip is to come to 
you, which, with the encouragement of rewarding him 
for so doing, will soon inspire him with confidence, 
and he will come to you and follow like a dog. Be 
very cautious about the use of the whip or harsh lan- 
guage, remembering that perfect, cheerful obedience 
is your object, and that can be secured only by great 
patience and gentleness, 

TO MAKE A BOW. 

Take a pin in the right hand, between the thumb 
and forefinger, and stand at his left side near the 
hips; tell him to make a bow. Then pricking him 
very lightly on the small of the back, this will make 
him move his head; keep pricking him till you get 
the right motion of the head, then caress him where 
you have been pricking him. Or take your pin as 
before and stand up to his shoulder and prick him on 
the breast lightly, as if a fly were biting, which to 
relieve he will bring down his head, which you will 



46 THE HORSE TAMEK, 

accept as a bow, and reward by caressing on the side 
of the neck. Then repeat until he will bring down 
his head at the least motion of your hand towards his 
breast or any other signal that he will understand 
readily. 

TO SAY NO. 

Stand by your horse's shoulder, tell him to shake 
his head, at the same time prick him lightly on the 
withers or neck, w^hich will cause him to shake his 
head as if to drive away a fly. You then caress as 
before, and repeat until he will shake his head at the 
least indication of your touching him with the pin : 
you can train your horse so nicely in this way in a 
short time as to cause him to make a bow or shake 
his head by merely turning the hand a httle or mov- 
ing it slightly towards him. 

TO LIE DOWN. 

To teach a horse to lie down quickly you must lay 
him down a few times with the rope and strap, as 
described in Tampering with Vicious Horses. When 
down treat your horse with great attention and kind- 
ness. After putting him down a few times in this way 
he will usually lie down in a short time by taking up 
one foot and holding it in your hand, asking him to 
lie down; he will soon come down. When he will 
come on his knees by taking his foot in your hand, 
stoop as if intending to take it up, saying, " Lie down, 
sir !" Then make him come down by a motion of the 
hand, and finally by simply teUing him to he down. 

In teaching a horse to lie down, be gentle, caress 
and reward him for lying down, and your horse, com- 
prehending what you want and finding himself paid 
for comj^liance, will soon be as anxious to get down 
for the reward as you are to have him do so. 



I 



THE HORSE TAMEK. 47 

TO SIT UP. 

Wlien your horse will lie down readily you can then 
learn him to sit up, like a dog, easily. First, cause 
him to lie down, having on a common bridle, with the 
reins over his neck; then step behind him and step 
tirmly on his tail with the right foot, holding the reins 
in the left hand while with the right bear down firmly 
on the hips, thus in position, say "Get up, sir!" The 
horse, rising from a recumbent position, first turns on 
his belly, throws out his forward feet and raises him- 
self -on them, springs forward and raises on his hind 
feet. Now standing on his tail firmly, and pulling 
back upon the reins when he attempts to spring for- 
ward and up, will prevent his doing so, and you will 
hold him sitting up. Hold him firmly a few seconds, 
talking to him kindly, before permitting him to rise 
on his feot. Repeat a few times, when instead of 
springing up, he will sit on his haunches a short time, 
which you are to accept as complying with your wishes. 

Always say " Sit up, sir!" every time, and hold him 
in the position as long as he will bear, by fondling and 
talking to him kindly, and your horse will soon learn 
to sit up for you as long as you please. But if your 
horse is heavy and strong it will be necessary to resort 
to other means to hold him down at first. This you 
do by putting on his neck a common collar, and caus- 
ing him to lie down; then fasten a halter-strap to each 
hind foot and bring forward through the collar and 
draw up close, which will bring the hind feet well for- 
ward. Then step behind as before, and when he 
attempts to rise on his hind feet he will find it impos- 
sible to do so, because you hold them forward by those 
straps. Repeat tAVo or three times, when it will not 
be necessary to resort to such force. 

TO LEARN A HORSE HOW TO DANCE. 

Pat on the Camanche bridle; take hold of the cord 
.some four or five feet from the horse's head, and with 



48 THE HORSE TAMER. 

a whalebone wljip tap him on the shin or ankle until 
he lifts his foot, then caress him, and do the same 
with the other, and caress; then make him raise first 
one foot then the other, and caress; then make him 
raise them several times, until he moves his whole body 
by the motion of the whip to the time of music. 

TO LEARN TO WALTZ. 

After he has learned to dance, put a surcingle 
around his chest and fasten the bridle-reins to it, the 
left rein much the tightest, bringing his head well 
round to the left side. Then make him move forward, 
when he follows his head, and every time as he is 
turning his head from you give him a sharp cut with 
the whip, which will make him jump round quickly 
until his head comes around to you again. vThen you 
should caress and encourage him by talking kindly. 
He w^ill then be slower to move his head from you. 
but 3^ou must continue with the whip every time the 
horse's hind parts are to you and his head from you. 
caressing every few minutes, until he understands to 
move at the motion of the whip. 

TO TEACH A HORSE TO KISS YOU. 

Teach him first to take an apple, or something that 
he likes, out of your hand; when gradually raising the 
hand nearer the mouth at each repetition until you 
require him to take it from your mouth, holding it with 
your hand, telling him at the same time to kiss you. 
He will soon learn to reach his nose up to your mouth, 
first to get his apple, but finally because commanded 
to do so. Simply repeat until your horse understands 
and will do the trick thoroughly. 

TO SHAKE HANDS. 

Tie a short strap to the forward foot below the fet- 
lock. Stand directly in front of the horse, holding the 
end of the strap in your hand, then say " Shake hands, 



THE HORSE TAMER. 49 

sir !" and immediately pull upon the strap, which will 
I )ring his foot forward, and which yon are to accept as 
shaking hands, thanking him for it by caressing and 
rubbing his leg, and so repeat until when you make 
the demand he will bring the foot forward in antici- 
])ation of having it pulled up. This is a very easy trick 
to teach a horse. By a little jjractice a horse may be 
easily trained to approach, make a bow, shake hands, 
follow like a dog. lie down, sit up, etc., which makes 
him appear both polite and intelligent. Never lose 
courag:e or confidence in your ability because you do 
not bring about good results easily. To accomplish 
anything of importance, remember, requires no ordi- 
nary resolution and jDerseverance. There will be no 
credit or importance attached to mastering and man- 
aging bad horses if not difficult and apparently 
dangerous. No duty requires more firmness of pur- 
pose in the control of the passions, or more fidelity to 
the principles of kindness and truth, than that of 
Horsemanship. 



RULES AND REGULATIONS 



FOK THE GOVEKNMENT OF 



TMOTTIWG A WD RACING- 



OVEK THE 



UNION COURSE, LONG ISLAND. 



The following are tlie Rules and Regulations for 
the government of all trotting and pacing matches to 
come off on the Union Course, Long Island: 

Rule 1. Nature of Mules. — All matches or sweep- 
stakes which shall come off over this course will be 
governed by these rules, unless the contrary is mutu- 
ally agreed upon by the parties making such match 
or stake. 

2. Poiver of Postponement. — In case of unfavorable 
weather, or other unavoidable causes, all purses, 
matches, sweej) stakes announced to come off, to which 
the ^proprietors contribute, they shall have the power 
to postpone to a future day, upon giving notice of 
the same. 

3. Qualifications of Horses Starting. — Horses trained 
in the same stable, or owned in part by the same per- 
son, within three days, shall not start for a purse; and 
horses so entered shall forfeit their entrance. A horse 
starting alone shall receive but one-half of the purse. 
Horses deemed by the judges not fair trotting horses 
shall be ruled off previous to, or distanced at the ter- 
mination of the heat. 

4. Entries. — All entries shaU be made under a seal, 
inclosing the entrance money (ten j)er cent, on the 
purse), and addressed to the proprietor, at such time 
and place as may have been previously designated by 
advertisement. 



52 THE HORSE TAMER. 

5. Weight to be Carried. — Every trotting horse start- 
ing for match, purse or stake, shall carry one hundred 
and forty-five pounds; if in the harness, the weight of 
the sulky and harness not to be considered. Pacing 
horses liable to the same rule. 

6. Distances. — A distance for mile heats, best three 
in five, shall be one hundred yards; for one mile heats, 
eighty yards; and for every additional mile, an addi- 
tional eighty yards. 

7. Time Between Heats. — The time between heats 
shall be, for one mile, twenty minutes; for every addi- 
tional mile an additional five minutes. 

8. Power of Judges. — There shall be chosen by the 
proprietors of the course, or stewards, three judges to 
preside over a race for purses, and by them an addi- 
tional judge shall be appointed for the distance stand; 
they may, also, during or previous to a race, appoint 
inspectors at any part of the course, whose reports, 
and theirs alone, shall be received of any foul riding 
or driving. 

9. Difference of Opinion Between Judges. — Should a 
difference of opinion exist between the judges in the 
starting stand on any question, a majority shall govern. 

10. Judges' Duties. — The judges shall order the 
horses saddled or harnessed five minutes previous to 
the time appointed for starting; any rider or driver 
causing undue detention after being called up, by 
making false starts or otherwise, the judges may give 
the word to start without reference to the situation of 
the horse so offending, unless convinced such delay is 
unavoidable on the part of the rider or driver, in 
which case not more than thirty minutes shall be 
consumed in attempting to start; and at the expira- 
tion of that time, the horse or horses ready to start 
shall receive the word. 

11. Starting Horses. — The pole shall be drawn for 
by the judges ; the horse winning a heat shall, for 



THE HORSE TAMER. 53 

the succeeding heats, be entitled to a choice of the 
track; on coming out on the last stretch, each horse 
shall retain the track first selected; any horse deviat- 
ing shall be distanced. 

12. Riders or Drivers. — Eiders or drivers shall not 
be permitted to start unless dressed in jockey style. 

13. Weight of Eiders and Drivers. — Riders and driv- 
ers shall weigh in the presence of one or more of the 
judges previous to starting; and after a heat, are to 
come up to the starting stand, and not dismount until 
i30 ordered by the judges; any rider or driver disobey- 
ing shall, on weighing, be precluded from the benefit 
of the weight of his saddle a;nd whip, and if not full 
weight, shall be distanced. 

14. Penalty for Foul Biding or Driving. — A rider or 
driver committiilg any act which the judges may deem 
foul riding or driving, shall be^ distanced. 

15. Horses Breaking. — Should any horse break from 
his trot or pace, it shall be the dut}^ of the rider to pull 
his horse to a trot or pace immediately, and in case of 
the rider or driver refusing to do so, the penalty shall 
be that the next best horse shall have the heat; if the 
rider or driver should comply with the above, and he 
should gain by such break, twice the distance so gained 
.shall be taken away on the coming out; a horse break- 
ing on the score shall not lose the heat by so doing. 

16. TJie Winning Horse. — A horse must win two 
heats to be entitled to the purse, unless he distance all 
other horses in one heat. A distanced horse in a dead 
heat shall not start again. 

17. Relative to Heats. — A horse not winning one 
heat in three shall not start for a fourth heat, unless 
such horse shall have made a dead heat. When a 
dead heat is made between two horses, that if either 
had won the heat the race would have been decided, 
they two only shall start again; in races best three in 
five, a horse shall win one heat in five to be allowed 



54 THE HORSE TAMER. 

to start for the sixth heat, unless such horse shall have 
made a dead heat; such horses as are prevented from 
starting by this rule shall be considered drawn, and 
not distanced. 

18. On Heats and Distances. — If two horses each win 
a heat, and neither are distanced in the race, the one 
coming out ahead on the last heat to be considered the 
best. The same rule to be applied to horses neither 
winning a heat and neither distanced. If one horse 
wins a heat, he is better than one that does not, pro- 
vided he does not get distanced in the race; then the 
other, if not distanced, shall be best. A horse that 
wins a heat and is distanced is better than one not 
winning a heat and being distanced in the same heat. 
A horse distanced in the second heat is better than 
one distanced in the first heat. 

19. Horses Draivn. — Horses drawn before the con- 
clusion of the race shaH be considered distanced. 

20. Outside Bets. — In all matches made play or pay; 
outside bets not to be considered play or pay, imless 
so understood by the parties. 

21. Of Play or Pay Matches. — All moneys bet on 
play or pay matches by outside betters are not con- 
sidered play or pay. 

22. Betting. — Absent Belters. — A confirmed bet can 
not be let off without mutual consent. If either party 
be present at the time of trotting, and the money be 
not staked, the i3arty present may declare the bet void 
in the presence of the judges, unless some party will 
stake the money betted for the absentee. 

23. Compromised Matches. — All bets made by outside 
betters on compromised matches are considered drawn. 

24. Betters of Odds, etc. — The person who bets the 
odds has the right to choose the horse or the field. 
When he has chosen his horse the field is what starts 
against him; but there is no field unless one starts 
with him. If odds are bet without naming the horses 



THE HOKSE TAMEK. ■ 55 

before the trot is over, it must be determined as the 
odds were at time of making it. Bets made in trotting 
are not determined till the purse is won, if the heat is 
not specified at the time of betting. 

25. Horses Excluded from Starting or Distanced. — All 
bets made on horses precluded from starting (by Rule 
19), being distanced in the race, or on such horses 
against each other, shall be drawn. 

26. In Cases of Dispute and Improper Conduct. — In 
all cases of dispute not provided for by the rules, the 
judges for the day will decide tinallj^ In case of a trot 
or match being proved to their satisfaction to have 
been made or conducted improperly or dishonestly on 
the part of the principals, they shall have the power to 
declare all bets void. 

27. Size of Whips to be Used. — No rider or driver 
shall be allowed any other than a reasonable length 
of whip, namely, for saddle horses, two feet ten inch- 
es; sulky, four feet eight inches; wagon, five feet ten 
inches. 

28. In Case of Accidents.— In case of accidents, but 
five minutes shall be allowed over the time specified 
in Rule No. 10, unless the judges think more time 
necessary. 

29. Judges' Stand. — No person shall be allowed in 
the judges' stands but the judges, reporters, and mem- 
bers, at the time of trotting. 

30. In Case of Death. — All engagements are void 
upon the decease of either party before being deter- 
mined. 



IR E O I JP JE ^ 



The following recipes have been gathered from sources entitled to the full- 
est confidence as remedies of great value, and some of them at an uuusual 
cost ; and we present them with the hope of being duly appreciated. 

It is well to remember that to keep horses in health is much more imi)or- 
tant, less troublesome, and requires less skill than to cure sick ones. Abuse^ 
overwork, and exposure are to be guarded against, if the serious conseqiieu- 
ces of Inflammation of the Limgs, Colic, Foimder, &c., are to be avoided ; and 
if you have a sick horse, be cautious about doctoring too much until you are 
siire of what oiight to be done. 

For Inflammation of the Lungs. 

First bleed thoroughly, then give tinct. veratrum veride, y, oz; laudanum. 
i oz ; tinct. aconite, }{ oz. Shake well, and give a tablespoon half full every 3 
hours, in a pint of water well sM^eetened ; and if the pulse is not reduced in a 
short time, increase the dose to a spoonful! until the fever abates. As soon as 
the horse recovers so as to eat and he doA\-n naturally, keep him on hay alone, 
\vith a few carrots or potatoes, and daUy give a bran mash with salt-petre, 
crude antimony and sulphur, for a week or ten days, and you will prevent 
Dropsy on the Chest, which is a sequel of Inflammation of the Lungs. 

For Colic in Horses. 

Sulph. ether, 1 pt ; aromatic spirits ammonia, 1 pt ; sweet spirits nitre, 2 
pts; opium, yi lb; assafcedita (pure), % ft; camphor, y, lb. Put in a large 
bottle and let stand from ten to fifteen days. Dose, 2 ounces every two, three, 
or four hom-s, until the horse is relieved. This medicine is a sure cure for 
the worst form of Flatulent Cohc, if taken in time. It should be given in 
sweetened water. 

Another Remedy. 

For cases not very severe, 1 oz laudanum ; 1 oz sweet spirits nitre ; I <>z 
tinct, assafcedita; 1 tablespoonful capsicum ; from 2 to 3 ozs carbonate soda ; 
y pt whisky ; y pt water. Mix and give at one dose, and if not better in 30 
minutes, repeat half dose. 

Heaves. 

Take smart-weed, steep in boiling water till you get the strength. Give 1 
quart a day, mixed with bran or shorts, for eight or ten days. Feed green or 
cut feed wet with water during the operation. Only persevere, it will cure. 

To Cover Heaves. 

Oil of tar, 1 oz ; oil amber, 1 oz. Mix and give 15 or 20 drops in feed daily. 
Be cautious about watering ; don't give your horse more than half a bucketful 
at a time, and he will not show the heaves while you use this prescrii^tion. 

Spavin. 

This recipe originally cost two hundred dollars, and is worth the money to 
any man who is dealing in horses to any considerable extent. Euphorbium, .5 
ozs ; Spanish flies, fine, 2 ozs ; iodine, 1 oz, dissolved with alcohol ; red pre- 
cipitate, 'o oz ; corrosive subhmate, 1 oz ; quicksilver, y oz ; hog"s lard, 6 
ozs ; white turpentine, 6 ozs ; verdigris, }i Yb. Melt the 'lard and turpentine 
together, then while hot, add the others, except the quicksilver, which must 
be stirred in as it becomes cool. Mix well. When cold it is fit for use. Rub 



I 



* 



RECIPES. 57 

it iu well on the spavin every day for three days, then wash clean with soap 
suds, and omit for three days ; then repeat for three days, and so continue 
until a perfect cure is effected. Shoidd it bhster, use more cautiously. 

A Preparation for Blood Spavin. 

One-half pound of blood root ; 1 qrt alcohol ; 2 ozs tannin ; >/ lb alum. 
Mix and let stand, shaking it several times a day till the strength is all in the 
alcohol, and bathe the spavin twice a day, rubbing with the hand. 

Fo7' Wind Galls. 

Olive oil, 2 ozs ; nitric acid, 1 oz. Rub as much in every day, or every 
second or third day, as will bear without starting the hah-. 

For stifle. 

First take i quarts of rasked white oak bark, put into 8 qrts of water and 
boil down to 2 qrts, turn off the liquor while hot, and add 1 oz finecut tobacco ; 
now let stand until a little above blood heat, then heat a flatirou, or brick, 
then proceed to put the stifle in its place ; now bathe thoroughly with the de- 
coction about five minutes, then apply the iron or brick as near as the animal 
will bear, until absorbed. Then give the animal rest for an hour or two, and 
if it should possibly shp out again, repeat as before, taking care of it for a 
few days. 

Another Remedy. 

Take the while of an egg, to which add a large tablespoonful of salt. Mix 
and apply every two hours until a cure is produced. We have used this last 
remedy ourselves with firstrate success iu several cases of stifle, and beUeve it 
in ordinary cases to be as good a remedy as can be got. 

Scratches. 

Hydrate of potassa, 10 grains ; pulverized nutgaU, ^ oz ; white lead, ^ oz ; 
pulverized opium, 34 oz ; lard, }4 lb. Waah with soap suds, rub dry, and 
apply night and moi-niug. 

Another Bemedy. 

One quart good vinegar, J4 ft lethridge, mix and simmer down to half the 
quantity, strain and apply. 

For Inflamed Sioellings or Lame Shoulder. 

Equal parts oil amber, oil spike, camphor gum and ether. Should be shaken 
well before using, and weU rubbed in with the hand. 

To Recruit a Hoi^se Hide-bound oi' Out of Sorts. 

Take saltpetre, 4 ozs ; crude antimony, 1 oz ; sulphur, 2 ozs. The saltpetre 
and antimony shoidd be finely pulverized, then add the sulphur and mix weU 
together. Dose, tablespoonful of the mixture in bran mash daily. 

To Make Magic Liniment. 

Take 2 ozs oil spike, 2 ozs origanum, 2 ozs hemlock, 2 ozs wormwood, 4 ozs 
swee; oil, 2 ozs spirits ammonia, 2 ozs gum camphor, 2 ozs spu-its turpentine, 
1 quart proof spirits. Mix well and bottle for use, cork tight. For sprains, 
bruises, lameness of any kind, this liniment is unsurpassed. This is the same 
liniment, without the turpentine, which has achieved such wonderful cures 
for human ailments. No family should be without it. 



68 RECIPES. 

Simple Liniment. 

Put into spirits turpentiue all the camphor gum it will cut, wheu, for ordi- 
nary purposes, it is fit for use ; but if you wish to reduce pain, add as much 
laudanum as there is turpentine. The liniment is as good as it is simple. 

French Paste for Bone Spavin, {Will Cure). 

Corrosive sublimate, qiiicksilver, and iodine, of each 1 oz, with lard suffi- 
cient to form a paste. Rub the quicksilver and iodine together, and add the 
sublimate, and finally the lard, rubbing thoroughly. Shave ofl' the hair the 
size of the bone enlargement, then grease all around it, but uot where the hair 
is shaved off. This prevents the action of the medicine only upon the spavin. 
Rub in as much of the paste as ^vill lie on a five cent i^iece only, each morning 
for four mornings only, and in from six to eight days the spavin will come 
out. Then wash out the wound with suds, soaking well for an hour or two, 
which removes the poisonous effects of the medicine and facihtates the heal- 
ing, which can be done by any heahiig salve, but I prefer Sloan's Ointment to 
any I know. 

Horse Ointment {Said to he Sloan's). 

Resin, 4 ozs ; beeswax, 4 ozs ; honey, 2 ozs ; lard, 8 ozs. Melt these articles 
slowly, bringing gradually to a boil, remove from the fire, and slowly add a 
little less than a pint of spirits of turpentine, stirring all the time this is being 
added, and stir till cool. This is an extraordinary ointment for bruises of the 
flesh, hoof, or broken knees, galls or bites, or when a horse is galded to heal 
and keep off tiies. It is also good on human flesh. 

Condition Powders. 

Fenugreek, cream of tartar, gentian, sulphiu", saltpetre, resin, black anti- 
mony and ginger, of each 1 oz ; cayenne, >^ oz ; all firmly pulverized ; mix 
thoroughly. It is used in Yellow Water, Hide-bound, Colds, Coughs, Distem- 
per, and all other diseases where a condition powder is needeit. They carry 
ofl" gross hiunors and purify the blood. Dose, in ordinary cases, one table- 
spoonful once a day. In extreme cases, give twice daily. This powder has 
never failed to give entire satisfaction, and is fast becoming a general favorite 
among horsemen. 

Liniment for Spavin, Splint, Curbs, &g. 

Oils of spike, origanum, cedar, British and spirits of turpentine, of each 1 
oz ; Spanish flies, pulverized, % oz. Apply once in six or nine days ; will 
remove the lumps if you foUow up the treatment thoroughly. 

Ringbone Remedy. 

Pulverized cantharides, oils of spike, origanum, amber, cedar, and Barba- 
does tar, and British oil, of each 2 ozs ; oil of wormwood, 1 oz ; spirits of tur- 
pentine, 4 ozs ; potash, y,, oz ; nitric acid, 6 ozs ; oil of vitriol, 4 ozs ; lard, 3 
lbs. Melt the lard slowly, add the acids, stir well, and add the others, stirring 
till cool, Chp off the hair and apply by rubbing and heating in. In about 
three days, or when done running, wash off with 'suds and apply again.. In 
recent cases, two or three appUcations wiU cure. Old case will take longer. 

Poll- Evil and Fistula {Positive Cure). 

Common potash, i^ oz ; extract ot belladonna, ^ dra'-hm ; gumarabic, ^ 
oz. Dissolve the gum in as Uttle water as practicable, then, ha\ing pulverized 
the potash, unless it is moist, mix the gum water -with it, and it -vvill soon 
dissolve, then mix in the extract, and it is ready to use. The best plan to get 
this into the pipes is by means of a small syringe, having cleansed the sore with 



iiEcipr.s. • * 59 

sud-i. Repeat once in two days until the callous pipes and hard, fibrous base 
around the poll-evil or fistula is completely destroyed. One apphcation has 
produced a cure. 

Anti- Spasmodic Tincture {for Man &r Beast). 

Oils of cajviper, cloves, iDeppermint, annis, of each, 1 oz; of alcohol 1 quart. 
Mix ail together and bottle for use. Dose for horse, 1 oz every 15 minutes in a 
little whisky and warm water, sweetened with molasses. Continue until 
relieved. Dose for man, one teaspoouful. 

Physic Ball. 

Barbadoes aloes, 1 lb ; syrup buckthorn, 3 ozs ; codliver oil, 3 ozs. Melt 
ihe whole, and stir till cold. In winter, add a Uttle water. Make into 18 pills, 
sii'.d give every four hours, or as much as will move the bowels. 

Sioeeny Liniment. 

Alcohol and spirits of turpentine of each 8 ozs ; camphor gum, piilverized 
cautharides, and tincture of capsicimi, of each 1 oz ; oil of spike, 3 ozs. Bathe 
thii? liniment in with a hot iron, and faithfully follow until a cure is perfected, 

Poll-Evil to Scatter. 

Take a quantity of mandrake root, bruise and boil it, strain and boil down 
uutn rather thick, then form an ointment, simmering with sufficient lard for 
that purpose. Anoint the swelling once a day for several days until well. It 
has cured them after they were broke out by putting it in the pipes a few 
times ; also anointing around the sore. 

Nerve and Bone Liniment. 

Take beefs gall, 1 quart ; alcohol, 1 pint ; volatile Uniment, 1 pound (12 
ounces), spirits turiieutine, 1 pound ; oil of origaniim, 4 ozs ; aqua ammonia, 
Yi pint ; oil of amber, 3 ozs ; tincture of cantharides, 6 ozs. Mix. Use too 
well, known to need description. More particularly applicable to horse flesh. 

English Stable Liniment 

Oil of spike, aqua ammonia, and oil of turpentine, of each 2 ozs ; sweet oil 
and oil of amber, of each 1^ ozs ; oil of origanum, 1 oz. Mix. Call this good 
for anything, and always keej) it in the stable as a strong liniment. It is good 
for Poll-Evils, Ring-Bones, and all old lameness, inflammations, &c. If much 
inflammation, however, it wiU fetch the hair, but not destroy it. 

Diuretic Drops. 

These drops are reliable for Stoppage of Water, Foul Water, or Inflamma- 
tion of the Kidneys, in all cases. Take, sweet spirits of nitre, 4 ozs ; balsam 
copaiba, 2 ozs ; oil of juniper, 2 ozs ; spirits of turpentine, 2 ozs ; gum cam- 
phor, pulverized, 1 oz. Mix all together and shake weU, bottle and it is fit for 
oae for man or beast under all circumstances where a diuretic is required. 
Dose for horse : 1 oz in oue-half pint of milk once in six hours. For man : 
one teaspoonful in a tablespoonful of milk once in six hours. Be sure to shake 
the ingredient up well before pouring out for use. 

To Cure Horse Distemper. 

If the glands of the neck are not swollen much, give half a three cent paper 
of smoking tobacco morning and evening in warm bran mash, and give no 
tame hay, but a httle fine prairie hay moistened with weak brine. If the 
glands of the neck are swollen, apply' a warm poultice of wheat bran and 
hashed i^ork wet with hot vinegar, changing as often as the poultice gets dry,and 



60 • RECIPES. 

get do\\Ti all the flax-seed or slippery-elm tea that you can. Let this be hiw 
coustaut di-ink. Be cautious to keep the horse from taking cold in any way, 
and never bleed during the horse distenii)er, or physic your horse any more 
than you will be able to do with the bran mash. 

Remedy for Botts. 

Take oil of turpentine, 8 ozs ; alcohol, 1 quart. Mix and bottle for use. 
Dose, 4 to 5 ozs in the horse's feed once a day for eight days. Will eli'ectually 
remove the last vestige of botts. 

Founder Remedy. 

Draw about one gallon of blood from the neck, then drench with Linseed oil 
1 quart ; now rub the fore legs with water as hot as can be borne without 
scalding, continuing the washing an hour or more — or until the horse is per- 
fectly limber. 

Hoof Liniment f 01' Contracted Hoof 

Venice turpentine, y, pint ; aqua ammonia, 2 ozs ; salts of nitre, 1 oz ; ben- 
zone, 1 oz ; alcohol, 3 ozs. Apply at the edge of the hair and to the hoof 
twice a day for the first three days, once a day for the next three days after 
that, and once in two, three, or foiu- days, as may be required. 

Greast Heel, 

One teaspoonful of alum, saleratus, saltpetre, equal parts of each in a 
pint of water. 

Horse liniments. 

Aqua ammonia, 2 ozs ; ohve oil, y, pint ; laudanimti, 4 ozs ; alcohol, 1 pint ; 
turpentine, 2 ozs ; gum camphor, loz. 

Turpentine, 1 oz ; camphor, %oz: laudanum, 1 oz; alcohol, 1 oz; aqua 
ammonia, 1 oz. 



LIBRARV OF CONU 



CONGRESS 



002 853 226 5 



